As the year comes to a close, I wanted to reflect on a selection of products that deserve recognition for their innovation within the over-the-counter skincare space. I decided to focus on three main categories: exfoliants, retinoids, and SPFs, as these categories personally stood out to me in 2025. While not all of these products were launched in the past year, they represent some of the best that the current skincare market has to offer.
Best of Exfoliants
Glycolic acid has been “demonstrated to increase epidermal and dermal hyaluronic acid levels, increase keratinocyte and fibroblast proliferation rates, stimulate collagen production, and improve the quality of elastic fibers. An inhibitory effect on melanin synthesis has also been reported.” TLDR: glycolic acid helps your skin hold on to water, promotes elasticity and firmness, as well as even skin tone and texture.
There are several exfoliating treatments on the market labeled as 20-25% AHA multi-acid formulations. In practice, this usually means a blend of several acids—often something like 7% glycolic acid, 3% lactic acid, and 10% PHAs, which are gentler, larger-molecule exfoliants, with smaller amounts of malic and tartaric acids (or something to that effect). While the total percentage may look impressive, a formulation with a standalone 15% glycolic acid can sometimes provide stronger exfoliation than certain multi-acid formulations.
Additionally, glycolic acid should be between a 3–4 pH balance. If your face tingles when you first apply the product, it may indicate that your skin’s pH is lowering. The lower pH allows the product to penetrate the skin more effectively. This is known as non-neutralized glycolic acid. Brands that market OTC glycolic acid-specific percentages as higher than 15% could likely be using neutralized glycolic acid, which is gentler on the skin but less effective at penetrating deeply.
Because of this, a 15% non-neutralized glycolic acid exfoliant can deliver exfoliation that rivals—or even exceeds—that of higher-percentage multi-acid blends, despite the lower total acid number on the label.
It is important to note that beginners or those with sensitive skin should approach exfoliation delicately, and start with larger-molecule acids (PHAs or certain AHAs like lactic or mandelic acid). Stronger does not always = better. Gentle exfoliation can be highly effective, allowing you to support skin health without disrupting the skin barrier.
If you are in the market for a more advanced, 1-2x a week exfoliant, look no further than 15% non-neutralized glycolic acid formulations. Remember to use with caution and always listen to your skin. Glycolic acid is a powerful tool that should be used wisely.
My top picks for specifically stronger, OTC exfoliant treatments are:
Dr. Idriss Major Fade Flash Mask: This mask includes 15% glycolic acid, 3% lactic acid, and tranexamic acid. This mask has a lower pH making the glycolic acid non-neutralized for effective skin penetration.
Prequel Multi Acid Milk Peel: This leave-on milky serum includes 15% glycolic acid, along with supporting acids such as phytic, malic, mandelic and lactic acids. Additionally, it is formulated with a purposeful pH level of 3.3, making it non-neutralized.
Best of Retinoids
- Cocokind Beginner & Advanced Gel: For Sensitive, Eczema-Prone Skin
- Prequel Retinaldehyde 0.1% and 0.2%: Intermediate Users, Barrier Supporting
- The Ordinary 0.2% Emulsion High-Strength: Advanced Users, Budget-Friendly
You’ve likely heard of the gold standard retinoid, tretinoin. However, not everyone wants to go through the process of obtaining a prescription topical. Some may not even be able to tolerate tretinoin that frequently. The key to getting the most out of a retinoid is choosing one you can use consistently. That consistent use will drive the best results. But not all retinoids are created equal. In my article (Creating a Capsule Skincare Routine), I discuss how retinaldehyde is often more effective than standard retinol as it is one step closer to retinoic acid (while retinol has to convert twice to become retinoic acid — i.e., tretinoin). Additionally, stabilized retinaldehyde formulations help prevent degradation, allowing for effective conversion in the skin while minimizing irritation.
My top picks for effective, OTC retinoids:
Cocokind Beginner Gel 0.1% and Advanced Gel 0.5%: Both of these retinoids have earned the National Eczema Association Seal of Approval—a distinction granted to very few, if any, retinoids—making them true unicorns for sensitive skin. The 0.1% gel contains 0.05% retinol, 0.025% retinal encapsulated, and 0.025% granactive retinoid. The 0.5% gel contains 0.25% retinol, 0.125% retinal encapsulated, and 0.125% granactive retinoid. Both formulations include centella asiatica, aloe, and squalane to soothe the skin barrier and minimize irritation. With a granted seal of approval, both of these formulations are perfect for anyone with sensitive skin looking to start a retinoid. It is recommended that beginners reach for the 0.1% gel, while more intermediate users reach for the 0.5% gel.
Prequel Retinal Renew Gel 0.1% and 0.2%: These stabilized retinoid formulations both contain ectoin, glycerin, and jojoba oil to soothe and support the skin barrier. Concentrated centella asiatica leaf extract was also incorporated “to improve skin firmness and elasticity and help reverse cell senescence.” These retinoids are not part of a complex, like the Cocokind formulation—meaning the percentage listed reflects the true concentration of retinaldehyde (0.1% or 0.2%), without additional retinoid forms included. Start with the 0.1% formulation if you are beginner to intermediate, and work your way up to consistent use. If you’re an experienced or advanced user, implement the 0.2% formulation slowly into your routine until comfortable.
The Ordinary 0.2% Emulsion High Strength: Retailing for $14.90, this formulation is not only budget-friendly but one of the highest-strength retinoid formulations you can currently find over-the-counter. The 0.2% Emulsion also contains “synthetic oat analogues (specifically avenanthramide, a key beneficial component found in oats). This ingredient is known to help target skin discomfort and dryness, which are common concerns associated with retinoid use.” This product is recommended specifically for experienced or advanced users only.
Best of SPF
While SPF is usually on my mind, this year even more so. In the United States, sunscreen is legally a drug, not a cosmetic. The FDA has not approved a new sunscreen filter since 1999. Modern sunscreen filters used in Europe and Asia are widely considered more cosmetically elegant and offer more stable UVA protection.
Additionally, many K-beauty sunscreens have become harder to access in the U.S. due to a stricter enforcement of FDA regulations. This has led some international retailers to block U.S. sales or remove sunscreen listings. Even when consumers can find a sunscreen that isn’t counterfeit, hurdles such as higher tariffs, stricter regulatory screening, increased costs, and shipping delays continue to create significant barriers.
With these challenges in mind, I’ve been on the hunt for an elegant feeling, non-irritating SPF that is available in the U.S. until new filters are finally approved.
My top picks for sunscreens are…
Beauty of Joseon Day Dew SPF 50 PA++++: A reformulation to meet U.S. FDA-compliance, the Day Dew SPF is a lightweight yet hydrating sunscreen that gives you glow without a heavy or greasy feeling. It contains niacinamide, panthenol, glycerin, vitamin E, rice extract, and propanediol. It is essential oil and fragrance-free. Additionally, it is water resistant which can be helpful for those looking to try to avoid eye sting as they’re less likely to run into your eyes with sweat. Beauty of Joseon notes that “Day Dew Sunscreen is a skincare-first sunscreen made for the U.S. market using FDA-approved UV filters. It has a lighter texture that layers well under makeup, gives a fresh glow, and is water-resistant for 80 minutes — all while staying true to BOJ’s skincare-first philosophy.” At $18, this SPF is one of the more affordable options and definitely worth a try.
Anua Zero-Cast SPF 50: This formulation is incredibly similar to the Beauty of Joseon Day Dew SPF. It contains glycerin, panthenol, vitamin E, and niacinamide (minus the rice extract and propanediol that Day Dew contains). It does not contain any fragrance or essential oils. It is also water-resistant for 80 minutes and provides lightweight hydration without greasy residue. What makes it stand out from Day Dew is the innovative packaging. On the underside of the twist-off cap is the brand’s “Sun Cup”—a built-in indent that doubles as a measuring cup. When filled, it provides the recommended amount of sunscreen for reapplication, removing the guesswork. Starting at $18 at Ulta, this is another affordable option worth trying.
Kiehl’s Better Screen UV Serum SPF 50: An SPF on the pricier side, but one that is totally worth the splurge. This lightweight sunscreen sinks right into your skin, with a serum-like feel, and provides comfortable hydration. While it’s recommended for all skin types (even oily skin), my dry, acne-prone skin drinks this sunscreen up and feels cushioned, even in the dead of winter. If you’re oily, you can consider skipping your morning moisturizer and just using this SPF instead. Additionally, it contains Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 and Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, which are powerful anti-aging peptides that signal skin to boost collagen (also known as their patented name Matrixyl™ 3000). While this sunscreen isn’t listed as water resistant, I have found it to be incredibly non-irritating to my eyes and sensitive skin. It is also essential oil and fragrance-free.
Looking at these products, I have no doubt that 2026 will be even better—especially with the potential approval of Tinosorb S in the U.S., along with several promising launches at the start of the year (including an eczema-approved vitamin C from Skinfix and a colloidal oatmeal moisturizer from Dieux)—but more on those later.
